Camino a Santiago - caminoasantiago.com

Escudo de Verín.

Going back in history, more people have walked the Silver Way, commencing in Seville, than any other one route in Galicia, and, indeed, in Spain. Before there was a Jacobean route, a calzada (highway) built by the Romans united Emerita Augusta, (Merida today) with Asturica Augusta (Astorga), traversing practically the whole of Spain from South to North. As applied to the Way the name “silver” (plata in Spanish) is misleading, since it is not at all related to the prized metal, but it is directly derived from the Arab word Bal’latta which defined the wide cobbled roads, calzadas, built by the Romans. The Moorish warrior Almanzor utilized the self-same highway when he and his troops sacked Santiago in the year 997 stealing away the bells from the Cathedral. Upon the defeat of the Moors centuries later the very same bells were returned to Santiago over the very same “silver” route.

At the start of the Jacobean pilgrimage those pilgrims walking the Silver Way went to Astorga and from there followed the French Way. That trajectory entailed a material detour which is why in later times pilgrims went directly to Puebla de Sanabria to reach Galicia through the province of Oriense. Thence they crossed A gudinha, Laza, or some other route parallel to Verin or Xinzo de Lima to reach the two Camino approaches near Orense. Pilgrims coming from Portugal crossed Chavez, located 12 kms. South of Verin.

The route was looked after by pilgrims’ hostals in Verin, Monterrei, Xunqueira de Ambia, Allariz and Orense. The military-religious orders of the knights of Santiago, Malta and Saint John of Jerusalem protected the pilgrims over designated sections of the way. Perhaps the most famous pilgrim in medieval times was the Great Capitan (an honorific of the era) Gonzalo Fernandez de Cordoba that walked the Silver Way pursuant to a promise.

The significance of the Silver Way’s history is felt immediately upon arriving at the pilgrims’ albergue in Verin. The albergue is located in the famous Casa del Escudo (site of the shield), also known as Casa del Asistente (site of the helper), which is a beautiful building boasting a great stone heraldic shield. The building also houses a tourism information office and an expositions hall.

Laza is located 18 kilometers from Verin. Both towns are renowned by their carnival celebrations, (antroidos in Galician), and their spectacles and shows are very noteworthy and shouldn’t be missed.

Besides these two notable towns, the Silver Way traverses fields of spectacular beauty, often scarcely populated and, sometimes, devoted to hunting (a problem for pilgrims); the area also produces some of the best Galician wines. In some small towns, like Xunqueria de Ambia the medieval importance of religion is made evident by such monuments as the imposing ninth Century Colegiata and its adjacent monastery and pilgrims’ hostal.

Perhaps Orense is the city in the Silver Way in Galicia containing more history in stone than any other. Its Cathedral dates back to the twelfth century and it is complemented by contemporary churches and buildings of great architectural value. Its Roman bridge dates back to the first century, although it was restored in the thirteenth and seventeenth centuries.

The Cistercian Oseira Monastery, evolved between the twelfth and sixteenth centuries, is a conjunction of Roman, Gothic and Renaissance styles; nevertheless it does exude an aura of peace and serenity in a green valley. Today the immense edifice houses only 13 monks.

Closer to Santiago pilgrims need to cross the Ulla River, related to the arrival of the Apostle in Galicia, through the Ulla Bridge. The historic bridge is now nearly obscured by the new turnpike bridge. Once in Santiago pilgrims enter the ancient part of the City, the Casco Viejo, through the only medieval door remaining on Santiago, the door of Mazarelos.

These are the 180 kms. That the Silver Way in Galicia covers; climate permitting, this writer will walk these kilometers in November.

Ultreia!!

Carlos

A Coruña, October 30, 2003

Translated by Rosina (Blaroli@aol.com)